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Onderstaand item stond in Fujitalk op Dpreview.
Wat denken jullie daarvan ?
CA is all fixable and this applies to any camera/lens combination not just the S100fs. The technique I use works for me and there may be folk who have others which also work – feel free to show your technique here also.
I will split this into three parts, as it will get long. If you want to understand how to fix CA/PF then read on.
If you want to debate, be negative, etc., send me an email. I promise I’ll get back to you :<)
Background :
About Me - I am a professional photographer who has bought the S100fs for professional work. By this I mean I will use it in the studio for people and product shoots. I will use it for scene, culture, people and reportage images for printing, presentation and sale in my own gallery or for stock images and for publication in books and magazines. In other words, it will be used in real world, real time, and real life situations. Above all, I will just have a lot of fun with it, which I am already. I do post process for my own work, and also for other folk, and have been doing this for over ten years now. I consider myself an expert in post work. I use PhotoShop CS2 but I am only relatively familiar with other editors. Also, I’ve been pushing a shutter button for over 40 years !!.
About The S100fs – I have owned dozens of cameras and I never buy one without doing my homework. With the S100fs, yes, I read the reviews but the main thing I did was down load images, which folk made available, and see if they would fit my workflow and what detail could be extracted in post process. I was truly impressed and bought one. The S100fs is a seriously spec’d camera and, if you own or buy one, you should understand how to get the most from it. This should include understanding post production work and using good post production tools. This is not a P&S camera; it is a quality tool for serious photography output. If you want it for snaps of the kids and family without any post work, that’s fine too. It delivers beautifully.
The Reviews – One thing that has been singled out is the CA/PF issue (?) In my opinion, I think this is out of all proportion and should not even be considered if you are looking at a camera such as this. As I mentioned before, this is a serious camera and can produce fantastic images. It’s not a DSLR – It is better in many ways and at a very reasonable price. It has Dual Image Stabilisation (DIS), Dynamic Range control (DR), a 28-400mm lens, great noise control and all the requisite manual adjustments to make it eminently usable in a myriad of situations.
Chromatic Aberration (CA) – Simply this is an effect caused where, particularly at the periphery, the angle of light coming through the lens and hitting the film or sensor is such that there is a ‘bend’ or ‘bends’ in the light, which causes an aberration to be recorded. There are more technical explanations but, suffice to say, it happens. It is as old as cameras themselves and can be found from any make/model in certain circumstance, particularly at high contrast edges. Purple Fringing (PF) is also an aberration and the term was first used to describe the colour of the aberration. In some camera/lens combinations, it is purple, in others, it is red.
The Myths – There are many oft heard and diverse opinions about this subject but these are points I hear often :
- CA is not fixable without destroying other detail in the image. False.
- There is software that automatically fixes CA. True but, typically, it will ‘attack’ all the parts of the image, which display the colours we wish to remedy.
- DSLR’s do not have CA. False.
- Expensive lenses do not have CA. False.
- CA can/should be fixed in the camera processor. Somewhat true but, typically, there is a trade off with loss of other detail or colour degradation.
This is the end of Part 1
Wat denken jullie daarvan ?
CA is all fixable and this applies to any camera/lens combination not just the S100fs. The technique I use works for me and there may be folk who have others which also work – feel free to show your technique here also.
I will split this into three parts, as it will get long. If you want to understand how to fix CA/PF then read on.
If you want to debate, be negative, etc., send me an email. I promise I’ll get back to you :<)
Background :
About Me - I am a professional photographer who has bought the S100fs for professional work. By this I mean I will use it in the studio for people and product shoots. I will use it for scene, culture, people and reportage images for printing, presentation and sale in my own gallery or for stock images and for publication in books and magazines. In other words, it will be used in real world, real time, and real life situations. Above all, I will just have a lot of fun with it, which I am already. I do post process for my own work, and also for other folk, and have been doing this for over ten years now. I consider myself an expert in post work. I use PhotoShop CS2 but I am only relatively familiar with other editors. Also, I’ve been pushing a shutter button for over 40 years !!.
About The S100fs – I have owned dozens of cameras and I never buy one without doing my homework. With the S100fs, yes, I read the reviews but the main thing I did was down load images, which folk made available, and see if they would fit my workflow and what detail could be extracted in post process. I was truly impressed and bought one. The S100fs is a seriously spec’d camera and, if you own or buy one, you should understand how to get the most from it. This should include understanding post production work and using good post production tools. This is not a P&S camera; it is a quality tool for serious photography output. If you want it for snaps of the kids and family without any post work, that’s fine too. It delivers beautifully.
The Reviews – One thing that has been singled out is the CA/PF issue (?) In my opinion, I think this is out of all proportion and should not even be considered if you are looking at a camera such as this. As I mentioned before, this is a serious camera and can produce fantastic images. It’s not a DSLR – It is better in many ways and at a very reasonable price. It has Dual Image Stabilisation (DIS), Dynamic Range control (DR), a 28-400mm lens, great noise control and all the requisite manual adjustments to make it eminently usable in a myriad of situations.
Chromatic Aberration (CA) – Simply this is an effect caused where, particularly at the periphery, the angle of light coming through the lens and hitting the film or sensor is such that there is a ‘bend’ or ‘bends’ in the light, which causes an aberration to be recorded. There are more technical explanations but, suffice to say, it happens. It is as old as cameras themselves and can be found from any make/model in certain circumstance, particularly at high contrast edges. Purple Fringing (PF) is also an aberration and the term was first used to describe the colour of the aberration. In some camera/lens combinations, it is purple, in others, it is red.
The Myths – There are many oft heard and diverse opinions about this subject but these are points I hear often :
- CA is not fixable without destroying other detail in the image. False.
- There is software that automatically fixes CA. True but, typically, it will ‘attack’ all the parts of the image, which display the colours we wish to remedy.
- DSLR’s do not have CA. False.
- Expensive lenses do not have CA. False.
- CA can/should be fixed in the camera processor. Somewhat true but, typically, there is a trade off with loss of other detail or colour degradation.
This is the end of Part 1
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